Delivering higher SPF with lower concentrations of actives
By Ann Marie Vieira
Senior Regional Manager, Asia Pacific
BASF Care Chemicals
LinkedIn
Most sunscreen makers today are facing a similar challenge. In the face of growing consumer expectations, they must deliver a high-level of protection in a sustainable and cost-effective manner. While there’s no doubt that a lot of effort goes into developing optimized formulations that deliver the right balance of performance – a key factor for success is using the latest technology that offers high performance efficiency with low ingredient concentration.
Leveraging the ‘scattering effect’ to further boost efficiency
Manufacturers should strive to use UV filter molecules that are not only capable of harmlessly absorbing UV radiation before it can reach the skin’s surface, but also reflecting and scattering these rays as well. Particulate UV filters – whose scattering properties are known to increase the optical path length of UV radiation in sunscreen films – are a very effective way of boosting a sunscreen’s UV protection capacity. (See “Scattering particles increase absorbance of dyes – a model study with relevance for sunscreens”, Photochemical and Photobiological Sciences, October 2015)
Filters can reflect, scatter and absorb the UV light depending on the size of the particles. The absorption and efficacy is increased as the particles become smaller in size. When particle size is not sufficiently small there is a skin whitening effect and the products are less cosmetically acceptable.
Filling the gap between UVA and UVB
The latest UV filter technology leverages these triple-action filters to absorb, reflect and scatter UV rays. BASF’s Tinosorb® A2B UV filter was the first micronized UV filter approved for use in cosmetics under the new EU Cosmetics Regulation. This multiple scattering boosts the effectiveness of oil-soluble filters and fills the current gap between UVA and UVB absorbers – meaning the SPF performance of these formulations can be increased at lower concentrations.
Improving the evenness of distribution with film-forming technology
Beyond particulate filters, synergistic film-forming UV filters, like BASF’s Tinosorb® S Aqua, utilize a PMMA matrix to allow better spreadability and easier application to the skin – and offers unrivaled film formation to optimize UV protection. Tinosorb® S Aqua also gives flexibility to formulators by allowing for distribution in water phase. With these two high efficiency filters, manufacturers are better able to deliver efficient and high-performance formulations that consumers demand – with lower overall concentrations of actives.
A simpler way to develop efficient sunscreens
With people of all ages, genders and income groups wishing to protect themselves from the sun and maintain their youthful good looks, sun care remains a hot topic the whole world over. At BASF, we offer an extensive array of top quality UV filters and other cosmetic ingredients, and can help you devise and market formulation concepts that will ensure your company’s sun care products continue to meet your target consumers’ unique needs.
Interested in learning more? Contact us so we can share our insight and expertise in developing solutions for the sunscreen industry.